Monday, December 28, 2009

DIY: Insulate Your Cookware

I'm sure there are those of you out there that enjoy cold weather camping as much as we do here at The Trail Collective. And while you're out there braving the elements, the last thing you want is for your meal to get cold before you finish eating it. In an effort to cut the ounces, cookware is being produced from thinner and more "exotic" metals. While this also lends to faster heat transfer (conduction, convection, and radiation) and quicker boiling times, it also means heat can leave just as quickly. This nifty trick will help contain, as well as radiate the escaping heat back into your cookware so you can enjoy that hot cup a' Joe a little while longer...

I've put together some steps to construct a simple, yet effective insulating "koozie" for your cookware. I'm using my all-purpose cooker, the SnowPeak TREK 700 Ti, for this particular example. The basic principle is straight forward allowing you to adapt to whatever cookware you favor. And finally, I think it goes without saying, but this device is to be used after the cookware has been removed from the heat source.

Materials:
  • Corrugated Cardboard (Thicker = greater insulating factor = greater size and weight = less malleable. Choose accordingly)
  • Duct/Packing Tape (I used clear packing tape)
  • Foil Tape ( I used a 2mil general purpose aluminum foil tape. Nashua brand. Can be found at most hardware stores)
So go grab your cookware and let us begin.


I decided to use a thicker cardboard for the base being that the overall height is not as much of a concern as the total diameter. As stated earlier, choosing these materials is purely up to an individual's discretion, while keeping the insulating caveat in mind.



Cut the cardboard to suit in order to make the side walls. Make alterations if necessary in order to accommodate handles or spouts. I chose to slide my cooker in with the handles folded up, therefore I sized the total diameter slightly larger.



Here is were the inside walls are lined with foil tape. The idea behind the tape is to reflect any heat leaving the cookware in the form of infrared radiation. The air pockets in the corrugated cardboard will help reduce the amount of heat escaping to the surrounding air through convection.


Next, use the duct/packing tape to join the two opposite edges. I taped once, vertically, down the seam, and once again around the circumference of the lining at the bottom. (Clear tape was a poor choice on my part for demonstration purposes. Sorry folks.)

Prepare the base in the same manor as the walls by lining with will foil tape. Then trace the circumference of your cookware. I found it better to use the inside of your constructed lining rather than the actual bottom of your vessel. This allows for a more accurate fit. Also remember to always cut larger than your tracing. Its easier to trim away than to redraw/recut over and over.

Fit base piece at bottom and use duct/packing tape to secure in place. I placed several pieces across the bottom of the base and came up the sides.

Finished




Experiment! There's endless ways to accomplish this while following the basic principles. Some designs will be more effective than others. The most you've spent is a few bucks on tape, and recycled some old boxes you had laying around. Happy Trails!

Wednesday, December 16, 2009

Ray Mears: Shelter Techniques: Rocky Mountains

Ask A Bear: Will Running Help Escape From An Attack?


Q: It is true that as long as I'm not the slowest runner in the group I'll escape your attack unscathed?—Ron B., via email

A:
I feel bad for your friends, Ron—do they know you'd ditch them in a second just to escape little ol' me? They might take some small comfort from the fact that your superior sprinting abilities might not do anything to keep me away. I may look fat and fuzzy, and my famous lumbering gait might seem slow, but I can almost always run faster than you if I want to. Running from me at full clip is generally a bad idea: If I'm not on the attack already, it might trigger a response. Also, just 'cause you're faster doesn't mean I'll let you go. If I perceive both you and your unlucky friend as threats, I could very well attack both of you, and it's well within my power to run both of you down. Don't believe me? My fastest reported speeds are around 40 mph; the current fastest human on Earth, Usain Bolt, runs a comparatively pokey 27 mph. But hey—I'm not a big fan of running you down and chomping on you. Just alert me to your presence with loud noises, and I'll probably amble away before you even see me.

—BEAR


as found on backpacker.com

Monday, December 14, 2009

Common Knots of Bushcraft

"We must define a knot, because if we do not, then we do not know what is a knot and what is not a knot."Whether you are packing your bags for a hike, setting up camp, or hanging cliff-side on a windswept mountain, you will undoubtedly be required to tie some type of knot. If you are like me, you would twist, turn, and mangle the line in any old fashion until it would hold, and then pray you would be able to release it when the time came. The pain and frustration can quickly be cured by learning a few simple knots. Just as you wouldn’t use a wrench to chop down a tree, each knot has its time and place, whether it is hanging a tarp or tensioning guy lines. This link contains few quick and dirty knots that are invaluable around the camp. The article was created by Mike Lummio, who is the founder and head instructor at Buschcraft Northwest.

Winter Camping Tips


Planning on doing some winter camping like us here at The Trail Collective? Then head over to backpacking.net's guide to winter camping. There's some great tips and points you may have overlooked.

Saturday, December 12, 2009

Spyder Co. Clipit Delica V8-10 Review

Spyder Co. has been in business since 1978 in Boulder Co. They have been known for their simple one-handed opening knives. What drew me to the knife was the ratio of weight to performance. This knife is extremely slim, only 0.3125" at it widest position on the handle and weights only 2.5 oz. The blade is a super-steel developed by the Japanese horticulture industry, and was manufactured in Seki-City, Japan. The blade features a serrated edge with a 1/4" fine tip. The handle is constructed of lightweight fiberglass, 2 steel rivets and one end screw. The construction of this knife makes is extremely light. It is barely noticeable in a shirt pocket. It was purchased from a small hiking supply store in Lynchburg Va. I paid roughly $75 for the knife.






After two years of regular use the blade is still in extremely well form, bearing only minor scratches. The blade still opens and closes fluidly and the lock is very responsive. I have had no issue with the joint becoming clogged with grease or dirt. The ergonomic design of the the handle is very comfortable. And the circle pattern carved out of the fiberglass provides adeqluent grip. While the handle is very light, I have had issue with its strength.


A few days after my purchase, I had the knife clipped in my pants pocket with the clip facing outward. As I sat in my car seat, the clip was caught in the seat belt. This stress caused the fiberglass molding around the screw (which tightens the clip) to crack. The knife still functions great, but I no longer trust the clip to keep the knife on me. Normally my knife is stowed in my backpack while i'm traveling and its not until we've reached camp for the night that I like to keep it on me.



In hindsight I would still have chosen a fiberglass handle rather than a traditional metal one because of the shear number of ounces you are able to shed. I'd recommend this knife to any outdoors minimalist that counts every ounce.

You can check out their site here:

http://www.spyderco.com/

Thursday, December 10, 2009

Quirang, Isle of Skye, Scotland

Doesn't this look like a delightful day hike?